STUDIO VISIT WITH MARIA DO CARMO
MAY 23, 2024
1. How would you explain the essence of Maria do Carmo ?
Maria do Carmo is a personal homage to summer. I feel so inspired observing women at the beach - teenage girls wearing bikinis and towels wrapped around their waists, grandmas with colourful swimsuits chatting all day under their little sunshades. All of them with the most beautiful sun-kissed glowing skin. They’re relaxed, they’re unbothered. They are my muses! I design for them. It’s not someone specific, but all of us women who love the sea. It’s Cleo from H2O, it’s you, it’s me. It’s not necessarily rooted in childhood nostalgia, but rather an idea of an eternal soul that is forever young, beautiful, and sexy.
2. At what point in your journey did you realise you wanted to start your own brand?
It has always been my intention to have my own brand, it just took me a while to get here. I always dreamt of leaving Madeira. I worked hard to apply to Central Saint Martins, I got accepted and off to London I went. After graduating, I came to understand that time is the most precious thing we have. I realised that I didn’t wish to work for someone else’s project. If I was going to put all my energy and time into something, I wanted to put it into my own ideas and ambitions. I moved back to Madeira during the pandemic and started my own brand. I find it truly fascinating that it took me all these years of hard work and learning to get here. Things take time, and that’s so fascinating to me.
It has always been my intention to have my own brand, it just took me a while to get here. I always dreamt of leaving Madeira. I worked hard to apply to Central Saint Martins, I got accepted and off to London I went. After graduating, I came to understand that time is the most precious thing we have. I realised that I didn’t wish to work for someone else’s project. If I was going to put all my energy and time into something, I wanted to put it into my own ideas and ambitions. I moved back to Madeira during the pandemic and started my own brand. I find it truly fascinating that it took me all these years of hard work and learning to get here. Things take time, and that’s so fascinating to me.
3. How did your experience at Central Saint Martins impact you?
I knew it wasn’t going to be easy, but I didn't realise just how intense and competetive it would be. Going into it, I had all these expectations about fashion and what it meant to be a designer, and they all came crumbling down when I got to Central Saint Martins. It was as if everything I believed in was shattered into tiny pieces, and I had to pick them up myself in order to move forward. I had to reconstruct my expectations and rethink what it meant to be a designer.
I did two internships after graduating, first at A.F.Vandevorst, and later at Acne Studios. It was only then that I realised how my education had been very fruitful when it came to my work ethic. It taught me to be very hands-on and proactive in my work. On both instances I was fortunate to have a good amount of freedom to experiment and try out things. It was a lot of work, but it was a lot of fun too.
Even though I believe Central Saint Martins prepared me for the industry, I was so unprepared for everything else in my life coming out of it. After graduating, I realised I had forgotten how to connect emotionally with people and the reality around me. I was feeling so unstable living in a limbo between working in glamorous studios and being young and broke, living in questionable conditions, running on coffee and adrenaline.
I knew it wasn’t going to be easy, but I didn't realise just how intense and competetive it would be. Going into it, I had all these expectations about fashion and what it meant to be a designer, and they all came crumbling down when I got to Central Saint Martins. It was as if everything I believed in was shattered into tiny pieces, and I had to pick them up myself in order to move forward. I had to reconstruct my expectations and rethink what it meant to be a designer.
I did two internships after graduating, first at A.F.Vandevorst, and later at Acne Studios. It was only then that I realised how my education had been very fruitful when it came to my work ethic. It taught me to be very hands-on and proactive in my work. On both instances I was fortunate to have a good amount of freedom to experiment and try out things. It was a lot of work, but it was a lot of fun too.
Even though I believe Central Saint Martins prepared me for the industry, I was so unprepared for everything else in my life coming out of it. After graduating, I realised I had forgotten how to connect emotionally with people and the reality around me. I was feeling so unstable living in a limbo between working in glamorous studios and being young and broke, living in questionable conditions, running on coffee and adrenaline.
4. Do you consider moving back to Madeira and starting your own brand as a homecoming?
I moved back to Madeira during the pandemic after I finished my internship at Acne Studios. I had no other choice and the first couple of months were really hard for me. I had just graduated and spent a year trying to find my place in the industry. My expectations of finding a job at a big brand were high, so to come home at the beginning of my professional career felt like a defeat.
It actually turned out to be exactly what I needed. I was forced to take a step back and rethink my aspirations and goals. I finally got to heal and demystify the ideas of what it meant to be successful. I got to reconnect with myself and with my roots. I realised how simple things actually are. Sometimes, you just have to go back to your own bubble, be quiet for a minute, and you’ll figure out a way to get where you want to be.
I moved back to Madeira during the pandemic after I finished my internship at Acne Studios. I had no other choice and the first couple of months were really hard for me. I had just graduated and spent a year trying to find my place in the industry. My expectations of finding a job at a big brand were high, so to come home at the beginning of my professional career felt like a defeat.
It actually turned out to be exactly what I needed. I was forced to take a step back and rethink my aspirations and goals. I finally got to heal and demystify the ideas of what it meant to be successful. I got to reconnect with myself and with my roots. I realised how simple things actually are. Sometimes, you just have to go back to your own bubble, be quiet for a minute, and you’ll figure out a way to get where you want to be.
5. Tell me about your design process.
My creative process often starts from the material itself. I’m constantly aware of my surroundings and taking mental notes of objects and situations that may catch my eye. I get so inspired by colour combinations, light reflection or random objects I find around me. Then I work to create something based on the colour or material that first caught my attention. It all starts from something physical, never from an abstract concept. From then on it’s a endless process of problem-solving and playing with found objects and different upcycling techniques.
6. What is your favourite part of the process?
My favourite part is whenever I get to share my work with other people through way of a show or presentation. I love those moments before a runway show when you finally see all your work coming together and everyone is just so excited. It’s then that I believe I’m actually creating something real. And to share those moments with the people who are dear to me feels utterly rewarding. That is the peak for me. I want my work to be seen and remembered - that’s the most important part of the process.
On my last show during Lisbon Fashion Week I got to share the backstage excitement with the most amazing Dutch-Caribbean artist Goldiie, whom I collaborated with for my latest collection for Sangue Novo (Lisbon Fashion Week’s new talent program). It was so special to have her with me backstage. I feel like we really connected on a deeper level. She has a distinct eye for things - you can tell she’s from an island too (laughs).
My creative process often starts from the material itself. I’m constantly aware of my surroundings and taking mental notes of objects and situations that may catch my eye. I get so inspired by colour combinations, light reflection or random objects I find around me. Then I work to create something based on the colour or material that first caught my attention. It all starts from something physical, never from an abstract concept. From then on it’s a endless process of problem-solving and playing with found objects and different upcycling techniques.
6. What is your favourite part of the process?
My favourite part is whenever I get to share my work with other people through way of a show or presentation. I love those moments before a runway show when you finally see all your work coming together and everyone is just so excited. It’s then that I believe I’m actually creating something real. And to share those moments with the people who are dear to me feels utterly rewarding. That is the peak for me. I want my work to be seen and remembered - that’s the most important part of the process.
On my last show during Lisbon Fashion Week I got to share the backstage excitement with the most amazing Dutch-Caribbean artist Goldiie, whom I collaborated with for my latest collection for Sangue Novo (Lisbon Fashion Week’s new talent program). It was so special to have her with me backstage. I feel like we really connected on a deeper level. She has a distinct eye for things - you can tell she’s from an island too (laughs).
7. What have been your biggest challenges in starting your own brand?
I'd say the three biggest challenges for me have been time, money, and managing expectations. If you manage your expectations according to the time and money you have, you'll find a way to make it work. So far, the biggest challenge remains working towards financial stability. It takes time to build a self-sufficient business, and until then I have to make ends meet in other ways, which can feel frustrating and exhausting at times.
When working in the creative field, you’re constantly playing with your own expectations. I’ve learned that you won’t always get to do everything you hope for, and that’s okay. What I usually do is set one or two goals for the year ahead and do my best to make them happen. If I achieve them, I consider it a success
I recently started an ongoing collaboration with And.Studio - a lovely team that’s assisting me with production and making my life much easier. I have time again to just exist, which is so important to get creativity going. Time to go for a swim, to be in nature, to absorb and appreciate the reality around me and let ideas flow.
I'd say the three biggest challenges for me have been time, money, and managing expectations. If you manage your expectations according to the time and money you have, you'll find a way to make it work. So far, the biggest challenge remains working towards financial stability. It takes time to build a self-sufficient business, and until then I have to make ends meet in other ways, which can feel frustrating and exhausting at times.
When working in the creative field, you’re constantly playing with your own expectations. I’ve learned that you won’t always get to do everything you hope for, and that’s okay. What I usually do is set one or two goals for the year ahead and do my best to make them happen. If I achieve them, I consider it a success
I recently started an ongoing collaboration with And.Studio - a lovely team that’s assisting me with production and making my life much easier. I have time again to just exist, which is so important to get creativity going. Time to go for a swim, to be in nature, to absorb and appreciate the reality around me and let ideas flow.
8. Of all the designs you've created so far, do you have a favourite one?
I’m constantly reinventing my favourite piece - the best design is always going to be the one I’m working on next! I love all the pieces that I’ve made so far, and if I’d have to pinpoint one that I particularly love I’d probably say the spiral dress with gems that opened my last show at Lisbon Fashion Week FW24. Still, I’m sure the next collection is always going to be better than the previous one.
I’m constantly reinventing my favourite piece - the best design is always going to be the one I’m working on next! I love all the pieces that I’ve made so far, and if I’d have to pinpoint one that I particularly love I’d probably say the spiral dress with gems that opened my last show at Lisbon Fashion Week FW24. Still, I’m sure the next collection is always going to be better than the previous one.
9. What are you most excited about for the future?
I’m looking forward to growing my brand - to have my own studio and to bring on a team of creative people to collaborate with me. I would love to have the chance to showcase my work in London this year. That’s something I’m currently working on. It’s always been my goal to share my work with people around me, and that’s what excites me the most about the future!
I’m looking forward to growing my brand - to have my own studio and to bring on a team of creative people to collaborate with me. I would love to have the chance to showcase my work in London this year. That’s something I’m currently working on. It’s always been my goal to share my work with people around me, and that’s what excites me the most about the future!
10. What’s your favourite object in your studio?
It’s usually something shiny - like gems, glitter, or sequins. I often find gems in the most random places in my studio, it’s like I’m constantly attracting glittery things. The other day I found a shiny thread that must have come stuck to my shoe. I noticed it and kept it for future inspiration.
It’s usually something shiny - like gems, glitter, or sequins. I often find gems in the most random places in my studio, it’s like I’m constantly attracting glittery things. The other day I found a shiny thread that must have come stuck to my shoe. I noticed it and kept it for future inspiration.